Colour check

1 — white text, #FFFFFF This line is pure white. If you cannot read it, something on your computer is re-colouring the page.
2 — light grey text, #ABABAB This line is light grey — the colour the journal paragraphs use. If line 3 is readable and this one is not, that is the answer.
3 — mid grey text, #6C7A82 This line is mid grey — the colour of the picture captions, which you said you can see.
4 — the three colours as blocks

Left to right: white, light grey, mid grey. They should get darker left to right. If they do not, the page is being re-coloured.

This page uses no JavaScript, no 3D, no stylesheet file and no web fonts — everything is written into the page itself. So whatever it shows is your browser, not the site. Open it normally, then open it again in a private window, and tell me whether the two look different.